Trade of Pre-Owned Rolex and Patek Philippe Watches Leading Market Activity in Luxury Watch Segment

Gems News: Luxury Watch Secondary Market Defies Global Slump

The global luxury watch sector has faced a stormy year, yet a surprising beacon of growth has emerged from the pre-owned segment. While new watch sales are weighed down by tariffs, economic uncertainty, and weak consumer sentiment in major markets, demand for pre-owned Rolex and Patek Philippe timepieces is soaring. According to this Gems News report, the resilience of the second-hand market is not only lifting investor confidence but also reshaping consumer buying behavior.

Reports show that here is a boom in the sales and trading activity of second-hand Rolex watches
Image Credit: Rolex

Rolex and Patek Philippe Show Strong Gains

The Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index, which monitors the top 50 most traded luxury watches by transaction value, climbed 5.3% in the first half of 2025 and has maintained steady growth into the third quarter. Leading the rally are Rolex’s gold Daytona 116508 and Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut 5167A, both commanding higher prices as demand surges.

Industry analysts highlight that while this growth pales compared to the frenzied buying seen during the pandemic years, the recovery is significant given today’s turbulent backdrop. Inflation, trade wars, and escalating geopolitical crises have turned luxury watch collecting into a cautious pursuit. Yet pre owned platforms are offering a rare upside.

Tariffs and Supply Issues Drive Buyers to Pre-Owned

A 39% tariff on Swiss watch imports into the United States has been a severe blow to new sales, with Swiss exports plunging 5.6% in June alone. Markets such as Japan and Hong Kong have echoed the downturn. In contrast, pre-owned trading has flourished as customers seek availability without long waiting lists and unpredictable allocation systems.

Christy Davis, founder of the London-based platform Subdial, noted that high gold prices have lifted the cost of new timepieces, while long delays for flagship models continue to frustrate collectors. This has funneled many into the secondary market, where watches are accessible instantly.

Second-hand Rolex watches such as this model are not only in high demand but are fetching record prices
Image Credit: Rolex

Shifting Tastes and Quiet Luxury

Interestingly, Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut has been gaining traction over the iconic Nautilus, signaling a pivot in consumer taste. Experts say the trend toward “quiet luxury” — understated elegance over ostentation — is defining buying behavior in 2025. The Rolex Daytona’s strength is also closely linked to record bullion prices, fueled by wars and global economic stress.

Broader Industry Pressures Remain

Even as the secondary market thrives, large groups such as Swatch, which owns Omega and Blancpain, reported first half sales slumping 7.1% due to weak Chinese demand. Meanwhile, a strong Swiss franc is making exports pricier, further straining brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.

Swiss negotiators are currently lobbying Washington to ease the 39% tariff, but outcomes remain uncertain. Until then, the secondary market is likely to remain the industry’s silver lining, offering investors and enthusiasts a market still ticking upward despite global headwinds.

The recovery of pre-owned Rolex and Patek Philippe watches shows how resilience and adaptability can shape luxury markets even in challenging times. Collectors are no longer waiting years for flagship models but are finding immediate access through secondary platforms, ensuring steady momentum. The trend underscores a permanent shift in how prestige timepieces are bought and valued, hinting at a future where the pre-owned sector may dominate the luxury watch narrative.

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